For the past few months I have been focusing on bath and body products for my upcoming book — but, I am relieved to say that is all behind me now as I work to do the editing and get my book published.
I haven’t posted a free recipe for quite some time, and today I wanted to experiment with some lotions instead of making bath products. So I decided to make a copycat recipe and share it with you.
If you’re going to make a copycat recipe, you might as well go for the gold, right? So I decided to try my hand at making some Rodin Olio Lusso Crema. It sells for $84.00 (USD) for 4 ounces. Although it is certainly not the most expensive cream out there, it is richer than my pocketbook can afford for something like a lotion.
The first step of making a copycat recipe is to get the list of ingredients. In this case, the ingredients are listed to be:
Aqua (water), jojoba esters, ethylhexyl palmitate, propanediol, butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), glyceryl stearate SE, macadamia, integrifolia seed oil, cetyl alcohol, jasminum officinale (jasmine) oil, stearic acid, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) flower oil, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) leaf juice, argania spinosa kernel oil, glycerin, cellulose gum, xanthan gum, tocopherol, persea gratissima (avocado) butter, hydrogenated olive oil, sodium hydroxide phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, benzyl cinnamate, linalool, limonene, farnesol, geraniol, citral
The second step is figuring out what all those ingredients are, what they contribute to the product, what you can actually get your hands on, and what needs to be replaced with something else. I also figured out which “phase” of the lotion each needs to go into:
|glyceryl stearate||Use BTMS-50||Oils||Emulsifier||2.50%||0.2|
|shea Butter||Shea Butter||Oils||oil||2.50%||0.2|
|ethylhexyl palmitate||Cyclomethicone||Cool Down||silicone||2.50%||0.2|
|jojoba esters||Cetyl Esters||Oils||jojoba beads||2.50%||0.2|
|argania spinosa kernel oil, argan||Argan Oil||Oils||oil||2.00%||0.2|
|aloe vera leaf juice||Aloe Liquid||Water||Botanical||2.00%||0.2|
|jojoba Oil||Jojoba Oil||Oils||oil||2.00%||0.2|
|citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) flower oil (Neroli)||Neroi Essential Oil||Cool Down||eo||2.00%||0.2|
|stearic acid||Omit, Use cetearyl alcohol||Oils||thickener||2.00%||0.2|
|jasminum officinale (jasmine) oil,||Jasmine Essential Oil||Cool Down||EO||2.00%||0.2|
|cetyl alcohol||Omit – Use cetearyl alcohol||Oils||thickener||2.00%||0.2|
|macadamia, integrifolia seed oil||Meadowfoam Oil||Oils||oil||2.00%||0.2|
|ethylhexylglycerin||Use optiphen||Cool Down||Preservative||0.50%||0.0|
|phenoxyethanol||Use Optiphen||Cool Down||Preservative||0.50%||0.0|
|sodium hydroxide||Omit||Cool Down||Lye||0.50%||0.0|
|hydrogenated olive oil||Olive Oil||Oils||Oil||0.50%||0.0|
|avocado butter||Avocado Butter||Oils||Oil||0.50%||0.0|
|tocopherol||Vitamin E||Cool Down||Additive||0.50%||0.0|
|xanthan gum||Omit – Add cupucacu butter||Water||thickener||0.50%||0.0|
|cellulose gum||Omit – Add cupucacu butter||Water||thickener||0.50%||0.0|
|citral||N/A – Part of essential oil||N/A||N/A||0.05%||0.0|
|geraniol||N/A – Part of essential oil||N/A||N/A||0.05%||0.0|
|farnesol||N/A – Part of essential oil||N/A||N/A||0.05%||0.0|
|limonene||N/A – Part of essential oil||N/A||N/A||0.05%||0.0|
|linalool||N/A – Part of essential oil||N/A||N/A||0.05%||0.0|
|benzyl cinnamate||Peru Balsam Essential Oil||Cool Down||peru balsam||0.05%||0.0|
The next step is figuring out how much of each ingredient you need to add. To approach this, I tried to look for the things that might be in the largest and smallest quantities according to their recommended usage rates.
In this case, starting with the preservative ingredients, I thought that was where the ingredients start getting 1% or less in the order listed in the chart. So everything under the preservatives line gets less than 1%.
I also know that the water is usually between 65-85%. This is a cream, not a lotion, so I am going with the lower end of that.
Some of the ingredients toward the bottom are compounds found in essential oils, so I put a very small percentage on this. Since I will be adding essential oils already, I don’t need to count these in my recipe. However, I did notice Benzyl Cinnamate, which is a component in Peru Balsam essential oil. Peru Balsam was not listed in the ingredients, however, so on that line, I am just going to add some in.
And then you figure out the amount of emulsifier to use based on the total percent of oils in the recipe. So in this case, the oils total 15% of the recipe and I am using BTMS-50 as my emulsifier (at 23%). So .15 times .23 = 3.5%
The final step is to make sure that the percentages equal 100%. I adjusted the water amount until my total was 100%.
Now comes the fun part. Deciding what changes to make (if any). I decided I wanted to use Aloe liquid as part of my water phase. So I deducted 10% from the water and added aloe liquid to the recipe.
I also noticed that Jasmine essential oil was high up in the list of ingredients (in the 2% range). I don’t care much for florals, and many of the reviews on this product complain that the scent is too strong. So I am reducing the amount and only using a few drops of jasmine essential oil. It is expensive anyhow.
I swapped out propanediol with sodium lactate instead.
So now let’s have a look at my recipe:
Possible Dupe for Rodin Olio Lusso Crema Hand Cream
|Ingredient||Percentage||Ounces (total 8 oz)|
|Aloe Vera Liquid||9.2%||0.7|
|Cetyl Esters NF||2.5%||0.2|
|BTMS-50 Conditioning Emusifier||3.5%||0.3|
|Cool Down Phase||
|T-50 Tocopherols (vitamin E)||0.5%||0.0|
Jasmine Absolute (6 drops)
Neroli (6 drops)
Peru Balsam (1 ml)
Lemon (12 Drops)
Now there are a whole lot of other things I could have added to this, like allantoin, squalane, or panthenol. I restrained myself, however, because I was trying to stick as close as I could to the original product.
I did swap out some of the ingredients such as the gums, with cupuacu butter. Butters are thickeners and I don’t have those gums. I did, however, recently buy cupuacu butter (Camden Grey), and it is supposed to be really luxurious.
I was concerned this might be costly, as it does have a few more expensive butters and essential oils included. I did a cost analysis by figuring out how much per ounce each of these ingredients costs and multiplying it by the amount used in the recipe. I calculated that it costs about $6.09 for 8 ounces (which is twice as much volume as you get with their product). That is $3.00 (USD) for the product they are selling for $84.00. Not bad!
- Measure all the water phase ingredients into a 2 cup measuring cup.
- Measure all the oils phase ingredients into a separate 2 cup measuring cup.
- Measure all the cool down phase ingredients into a small shot glass or measuring cup. Set this aside.
- Microwave the oil and water phase cups for 1 minute.
- Remove the water phase from the microwave and continue to heat the oil phase for another 30 seconds.
- Measure the temperature of both the water and oil phase ingredients. They need to be above 170 degrees F. (preferably between 172 and 175). If they are not, reheat one, or both, until they are both in that temperature range (but be careful not to get them much hotter than that).
- Pour the oil phase ingredients into the water phase cup and stir. It should turn cloudy right away.
- Stick blend for 1 minute.
- Wait 10 minutes and stick blend again for 2 minutes.
- Wait 10 minutes and check that the temperature of the mixture is under 115 degrees F. If so, pour in the cool down phase ingredients. If not, wait longer.
- Stick blend for 1 minute after adding the cool down phase ingredients.
- Wait 5 more minutes and then if needed, stick blend another minute. If everything is holding together, it doesn’t need more stick blending. If it is not thickening, continue to let it cool, followed by more stick blending. As it cools, it will thicken.
- Scoop the cream into a sanitized jar.
- Let it cool overnight without the lid on (to let the condensation evaporate).
- Once it is cool, it is ready to use.
What are my first impressions?
I don’t care for the smell. It’s floral and not my favorite. But if you like jasmine or florals, it will be great. Luckily, I made it very lightly scented, so it is tolerable for me.
It is very thick and rich. It does sink in after a couple minutes and my hands feel moisturized and non-greasy and non-waxy.
Overall, I think it’s very nice. It’s a keeper, for sure!
I may make it again with a scent I enjoy more.