Analytical Recipe: Possible Dupe for the Luxurious Rodin Olio Lusso Crema Hand Lotion

For the past few months I have been focusing on bath and body products for my upcoming book — but, I am relieved to say that is all behind me now as I work to do the editing and get my book published.

I haven’t posted a free recipe for quite some time, and today I wanted to experiment with some lotions instead of making bath products.    So I decided to make a copycat recipe and share it with you.

If you’re going to make a copycat recipe, you might as well go for the gold, right?   So I decided to try my hand at making some Rodin Olio Lusso Crema.  It sells for $84.00 (USD) for 4 ounces.    Although it is certainly not the most expensive cream out there, it is richer than my pocketbook can afford for something like a lotion.

The first step of making a copycat recipe is to get the list of ingredients.  In this case, the ingredients are listed to be:

Aqua (water), jojoba esters, ethylhexyl palmitate, propanediol, butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), glyceryl stearate SE, macadamia, integrifolia seed oil, cetyl alcohol, jasminum officinale (jasmine) oil, stearic acid, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) flower oil, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) leaf juice, argania spinosa kernel oil, glycerin, cellulose gum, xanthan gum, tocopherol, persea gratissima (avocado) butter, hydrogenated olive oil, sodium hydroxide phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, benzyl cinnamate, linalool, limonene, farnesol, geraniol, citral

The second step is figuring out what all those ingredients are, what they contribute to the product, what you can actually get your hands on, and what needs to be replaced with something else.   I also figured out which “phase” of the lotion each needs to go into:

Ingredient Notes Phase Type % 8.0
water Water Water water 64.70% 5.2
glyceryl stearate Use BTMS-50 Oils Emulsifier 2.50% 0.2
shea Butter Shea Butter Oils oil 2.50% 0.2
propanediol Sodium Lactate Water Humectant 2.50% 0.2
ethylhexyl palmitate Cyclomethicone Cool Down silicone 2.50% 0.2
jojoba esters Cetyl Esters Oils jojoba beads 2.50% 0.2
glycerin Glycerin Water Humectant 2.00% 0.2
argania spinosa kernel oil, argan Argan Oil Oils oil 2.00% 0.2
aloe vera leaf juice Aloe Liquid Water Botanical 2.00% 0.2
jojoba Oil Jojoba Oil Oils oil 2.00% 0.2
citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) flower oil (Neroli) Neroi Essential Oil Cool Down eo 2.00% 0.2
stearic acid Omit, Use cetearyl alcohol Oils thickener 2.00% 0.2
jasminum officinale (jasmine) oil, Jasmine Essential Oil Cool Down EO 2.00% 0.2
cetyl alcohol Omit – Use cetearyl alcohol Oils thickener 2.00% 0.2
macadamia, integrifolia seed oil Meadowfoam Oil Oils oil 2.00% 0.2
ethylhexylglycerin Use optiphen Cool Down Preservative 0.50% 0.0
phenoxyethanol Use Optiphen Cool Down Preservative 0.50% 0.0
sodium hydroxide Omit Cool Down Lye 0.50% 0.0
hydrogenated olive oil Olive Oil Oils Oil 0.50% 0.0
avocado butter Avocado Butter Oils Oil 0.50% 0.0
tocopherol Vitamin E Cool Down Additive 0.50% 0.0
xanthan gum Omit – Add cupucacu butter Water thickener 0.50% 0.0
cellulose gum Omit – Add cupucacu butter Water thickener 0.50% 0.0
citral N/A – Part of essential oil N/A N/A 0.05% 0.0
geraniol N/A – Part of essential oil N/A N/A 0.05% 0.0
farnesol N/A – Part of essential oil N/A N/A 0.05% 0.0
limonene N/A – Part of essential oil N/A N/A 0.05% 0.0
linalool N/A – Part of essential oil N/A N/A 0.05% 0.0
benzyl cinnamate Peru Balsam Essential Oil Cool Down peru balsam 0.05% 0.0

The next step is figuring out how much of each ingredient you need to add.  To approach this, I tried to look for the things that might be in the largest and smallest quantities according to their recommended usage rates.

In this case, starting with the preservative ingredients, I thought that was where the ingredients start getting 1% or less in the order listed in the chart.   So everything under the preservatives line gets less than 1%.

I also know that the water is usually between 65-85%.  This is a cream, not a lotion, so I am going with the lower end of that.

Some of the ingredients toward the bottom are compounds found in essential oils, so I put a very small percentage on this.  Since I will be adding essential oils already, I don’t need to count these in my recipe.  However, I did notice Benzyl Cinnamate, which is  a component in Peru Balsam essential oil.   Peru Balsam was not listed in the ingredients, however, so on that line, I am just going to add some in.

And then you figure out the amount of emulsifier to use based on the total percent of oils in the recipe.  So in this case, the oils total 15% of the recipe and I am using BTMS-50 as my emulsifier (at 23%).  So .15 times .23 = 3.5%

The final step is to make sure that the percentages equal 100%.   I adjusted the water amount until my total was 100%.

Now comes the fun part.  Deciding what changes to make (if any).   I decided I wanted to use Aloe liquid as part of my water phase.  So I deducted 10% from the water and added aloe liquid to the recipe.

I also noticed that Jasmine essential oil was high up in the list of ingredients (in the 2% range).   I don’t care much for florals, and many of the reviews on this product complain that the scent is too strong.   So I am reducing the amount and only using a few drops of jasmine essential oil.  It is expensive anyhow.

I swapped out propanediol with sodium lactate instead.


So now let’s have a look at my recipe:

Creamo

Possible Dupe for Rodin Olio Lusso Crema Hand Cream

IMG_4426

Ingredient Percentage Ounces  (total 8 oz)
Water Phase
 


Water, Distilled 64.2% 5.1
Aloe Vera Liquid 9.2% 0.7
Vegetable Glycerin 2.0% 0.2
Sodium Lactate 2.5% 0.2
Oils Phase  


 





Cupuacu Butter 1.0% 0.1
Argan Oil 2.0% 0.2
Avocado Butter 0.5% 0.0
Jojoba Oil 2.0% 0.2
Meadowfoam Oil 2.0% 0.2
Olive Oil 0.5% 0.0
Shea Butter 2.5% 0.2
Cetyl Esters NF 2.5% 0.2
Cetearyl Alcohol 2.0% 0.2



BTMS-50 Conditioning Emusifier 3.5% 0.3
Cool Down Phase

Optiphen 1.0% 0.1
Cyclomethicone 1.0% 0.1
T-50 Tocopherols (vitamin E) 0.5% 0.0
Essential Oil

Jasmine Absolute (6 drops)

Neroli (6 drops)

Peru Balsam (1 ml)

Lemon (12 Drops)

1.0% 0.1

Now there are a whole lot of other things I could have added to this, like allantoin, squalane, or panthenol.   I restrained myself, however, because I was trying to stick as close as I could to the original product.

I did swap out some of the ingredients such as the gums, with cupuacu butter.  Butters are thickeners and I don’t have those gums.  I did, however, recently buy cupuacu butter (Camden Grey), and it is supposed to be really luxurious.


Cost:

I was concerned this might be costly, as it does have a few more expensive butters and essential oils included.   I did a cost analysis by figuring out how much per ounce each of these ingredients costs and multiplying it by the amount used in the recipe.   I calculated that it costs about $6.09 for 8 ounces (which is twice as much volume as you get with their product).    That is $3.00 (USD) for the product they are selling for $84.00.  Not bad!


Instructions:

IMG_4403-side

  1.  Measure all the water phase ingredients into a 2 cup measuring cup.
  2. Measure all the oils phase ingredients into a separate 2 cup measuring cup.
  3. Measure all the cool down phase ingredients into a small shot glass or measuring cup. Set this aside.
  4. Microwave the oil and water phase cups for 1 minute.
  5. Remove the water phase from the microwave and continue to heat the oil phase for another 30 seconds.
  6. Measure the temperature of both the water and oil phase ingredients.   They need to be above 170 degrees F. (preferably between 172 and 175).    If they are not, reheat one, or both, until they are both in that temperature range (but be careful not to get them much hotter than that).
  7. Pour the oil phase ingredients into the water phase cup and stir.  It should turn cloudy right away.
  8. Stick blend for 1 minute.
  9. Wait 10 minutes and stick blend again for 2 minutes.
  10. Wait 10 minutes and check that the temperature of the mixture is under 115 degrees F.  If so, pour in the cool down phase ingredients. If not, wait longer.
  11. Stick blend for 1 minute after adding the cool down phase ingredients.
  12. Wait 5 more minutes and then if needed, stick blend another minute.  If everything is holding together, it doesn’t need more stick blending.  If it is not thickening, continue to let it cool, followed by more stick blending.   As it cools, it will thicken.
  13. Scoop the cream into a sanitized jar.
  14. Let it cool overnight without the lid on (to let the condensation evaporate).
  15. Once it is cool, it is ready to use.

IMG_6521


What are my first impressions?

I don’t care for the smell. It’s floral and not my favorite. But if you like jasmine or florals, it will be great.   Luckily, I made it very lightly scented, so it is tolerable for me.

It is very thick and rich. It does sink in after a couple minutes and my hands feel moisturized and non-greasy and non-waxy.

Overall, I think it’s very nice.  It’s a keeper, for sure!

I may make it again with a scent I enjoy more.

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16 thoughts on “Analytical Recipe: Possible Dupe for the Luxurious Rodin Olio Lusso Crema Hand Lotion

      1. Thanks for the link. I looked at the ingredient list and am a bit confused by the order listed. They list: Jasmine Oil, Neroli Oil, Jojoba Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Apricot Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Calendula Flower Oil, Sunflower Oil, Argan Oil, Rosehip Oil, Arnica Montana Flower Extract”. The only Jasmine or Neroli oil I am aware of are essential oils and they certainly wouldn’t be listed first in an ingredients list that was ordered properly because they would be used at much smaller percentages than the other oils listed (like Jojoba or Sweet Almond).

        I am guessing they just didn’t list the ingredients in order of percentage on their website. I would guess if you wanted to duplicate this, you would use the carrier oils listed (Jojoba, Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose, Calendula, Sunflower, Argan, and Rosehip oils.).

        You would need an oil soluble Arnica extract, and then some percentage of the essential oils (Jasmine and Neroli). As those are used at low percentages (probably under 2% each), and the extract is probably used at only 1 to 2%, you would need to split up the remaining 97-98% between the carrier oils.

        I would probably use something like 20% Jojoba, 15% Sweet Almond, 15% Evening Primrose, 15% Calendula, 12% Sunflower and 10% each of Argan and Rosehip. (Although I don’t think you would notice much difference if you split that up differently).

        It looks rather simple to duplicate as it is just a mixture of carrier oils, essential oils, and an oil-soluble extract. If you like using anhydrous oil products, it’s probably pretty wonderful and I bet it smells pretty too!

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      2. I agree it is a very simple oil to replicate, and in fact many really dislike the fragrance of neroli & jasmine that dominates this oil. When Linda Rodin first created this 10 yrs ago it was like nothing else on the market, and she had friends in all the right places, and so it was priced accordingly. Now you can make it yourself sans fragrance which I think would actually be superior.

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      3. LOL, it’s quite an addictive subject!

        Sure, oils are one of the easiest things to substitute. The trick is to find a “similar” type of oil. In this case, for coconut oil, babassu oil is a great replacement for it. Its solid at room temperature, has great skin penetrating properties, and is all-around great for your skin.

        This product looks like a very easy one to duplicate as it appears to be just a balm (versus an emulsion). It is just a mixture of oils and wax with some colorants and a couple antioxidants. You would just melt the wax together along with heating the oils, then add in the colorants and antioxidants and let it harden.

        I haven’t done a lot with makeup foundations, but I know that I have seen makeup colorants and pigment blends that are skin-matched at this site >>https://www.makingcosmetics.com/Pigment-Blends_c_37.html.

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      4. I’m sorry but I don’t have time to do that. Instead, here is a link to a simple balm recipe on SwiftCraftyMonkey’s site.

        See the one in the middle of the page called “example balm recipe”. You can use whatever oils or butters you like as long as you stay within the percentage given. Then you just mix in your colorants. You could omit the butters listed in the recipe by adding a little more liquid oils and beeswax. If it doesn’t turn out the thickness you like it, you can simply re-melt it and add either more oils (to soften it) or more beeswax (to harden it).

        http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2013/01/formulating-on-budget-what-ingredients.html

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    1. Sorry, I don’t sell my products. I only make them for personal use and for gifting. You should try some time. It’s really not much different than making pudding. You might be surprised how easy it really is.

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