Around Christmas time, I made a hemp bergamot cream. I have been using it for months and was down to my last bit of it, so tonight I revisited the recipe to make some more.
Since I made it the first time, I have acquired a few new ingredients, so I reformulated the recipe to include more skin goodies. I wanted to make this into a dual purpose intensive body cream as well as a deep conditioning hair mask / conditioner this time.
I decided to call this one “Tsunami” because it drenches you in waves of moisture.
In my new formulation, I included both panthenol and allantoin for extra conditioning. I also used both cyclomethicone and dimethicone to give it some slip and shine for my hair, when used as a conditioner.
I changed out a couple of the oils for more luxurious ones, and swapped out sweet almond oil (in the original recipe) with kukui nut oil and olive squalane.
This time, instead of green tea extract, I used mallow extract and avocado extract to help with detangling and moisture. I threw in a small amount of cupuacu butter, and in the water phase, I added aloe vera liquid and hydrolyzed rice protein.
I also added more essential oils. Instead of just bergamot, I added a blend of bergamot, frankincense and lavender (not too much, only about .05% – just enough to help cover up the earthy smell of the hempseed oil).
Ok, so it’s a totally different recipe now than the first time around, but it still contains hemp seed oil, Optiphen, Bergamot, and BTMS-50.
The thing that always scares me the most with this recipe is that when you heat the oils phase, it turns into a sludgy, pea soup like liquid. I get panicky that something has gone wrong and it’s going to fail.
But when you mix the water and oil phases and give it a little stir, it all comes together nicely.
I blended it for 5 minutes, let it rest, blended more, let it rest, blended more until it cooled off to about 100 degrees. It was getting so thick! Then I added the cool down phase. Adding the cool down phase ingredients made it thin again, but 10 minutes later and after a little more blending, it was done. It’s a pretty green color due to the hempseed oil.
I decided it was pretty thick, but might still be pump-able, so I put it into a pump bottle. I hope when it cools it doesn’t get too thick to pump or I’ll be sorry for that decision.
I made 16 ounces (by weight), but weight and volume are not always the same amount, especially when you blend in a little air. So I ended up with a 16 ounce bottle and a little more in a 4 once jar.
I couldn’t wait to try it, so I put it on my arms. The verdict? I definitely improved the recipe by my efforts. Hooray! Success! As a bonus, the silicones seemed to have eliminated the soaping effect I got in the original recipe. I will try it on my hair tomorrow and see how that goes.
Update: I used this today on my hair and I am in love! I washed my hair hours ago and it is still damp — it is really holding on to the moisture! Where it is dry, it feels silky, non-frizzy, and non-greasy. I felt like the scent might be a little strong when i was in the shower, but it dissipated quickly and now I can only get a hint of the scent, but the relaxing lavender, bergamot and frankincense is still there, hopefully calming and relaxing me. 🙂