For my encore today, I decided to make a piped soap with a new fragrance from Nurture Soap called “Honey I Washed the Kids”.
This fragrance is supposed to be a well-behaved, light and mild smelling fragrance oil I did not experience either of those things.
I am posting the free recipe in case you want to try it too, but maybe with a different, better-behaved fragrance. In any case, it has been a long time since I posted a free soap recipe, and it is about time!
The recipe is as follows:
Honey I Washed the Kids Piped Soap
This makes about 30 ounces (844 grams) of soap batter. That is enough to fill a 4 inch silicone mold and make the frosting.
- Castor Oil – 2 ounces (57 grams) (10%)
- Coconut Oil – 4 ounces (79 grams) (20%)
- Olive Oil – 5.6 ounces (159 grams) (28%)
- Palm Oil – 5.4 ounces (153 grams) (27%)
- Safflower Oil (High Oleic) – 3 ounces (85 grams) (15%)
- Distilled Water – 6.4 ounces (181 grams)
- Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) – 2.8 ounces (79 grams)
- Sodium Lactate – 1 teaspoon
- Fragrance Oil – 0.7 ounces (20 grams) – I used “Honey I Washed the Kids” from Nurture Soap.
- Colorants – See instructions below
There are a lot of instructions below because making multi-colored, piped soap requires a lot of steps. I have broken it down in to eight “phases” with only about 5-10 steps per phase to make it more digestible.
Step One: Measure the Ingredients:
- Measure each oil and put them together into a large measuring cup or mixing bowl.
- Measure the distilled water into its own container and place this in the sink.
- Measure the fragrance oil into a small measuring cup and put this aside for now.
- In 5 small measuring cups (at least 1 cup sized), put the following colorants:
- Color 1: Titanium Dioxide – 1/2 teaspoon
- Color 2: Fizzy Yellow Lemonade Colorant – 1/4 teaspoon
- Color 3: Fizzy Yellow Lemonade colorant – 1/16 teaspoon plus Kermit Green Mica – 1/4 teaspoon
- Color 4: Electric Bubblegum Colorant – 1/4 teaspoon
- Color 5: Caribbean Blue Mica – 1/8 teaspoon
- Set the colorant cups aside for now.
Step Two: Make the Lye Solution:
- Put on your safety gear (goggles, gloves, long sleeves) and measure the lye into a small container.
- Add the lye to the water cup you placed into the sink in step 2 above.
- Stir the lye and water until the lye dissolves (otherwise it will stick to the bottom of the cup and not dissolve very well).
Step 3: Heat the Oils and Cool the Lye Solution:
- Meanwhile, the lye has to cool off for a while, so it is time to heat the oils. Take the whole bowl of oils you mixed together and put this in the microwave for about 30 seconds.
- Stir the oil and take the temperature with a digital infrared thermometer. If it is not at least 125 degrees F (51.7C), microwave again for 15 second interval until it is around this temperature.
- Take it out of the microwave and give it a good stir.
- Take the temperature of the lye solution. You need to do a little balancing act now to get the lye solution and oils within 10 degrees of each other – ideally both under 120 degrees F (48.9 C). You may have to reheat the oils for a very short interval if it starts cooling faster than the lye solution.
- To speed up cooling the lye solution, plug the sink with the stopper and add about 2 inches of water into the sink (being careful not to get any in the lye solution, nor tipping it over).
- Stir often. This will help it to cool faster. You can also add a scoop or two of ice to the sink water as well.
- Once the lye solution and oils are within 10 degrees of each other and under 120 F (48.9 C), proceed to the next step.
Step Four: Mix the Lye Solution and Oils.
- Carefully pour all the lye solution (slowly) into the bowl of oils.
- Stir with a rubber or silicone spatula for about a minute.
- Insert a stick blender and “burp” it (tap it gently against the bottom of the bowl while it is slightly tilted to release any air bubbles).
- Turn the stick blender upright and alternate stick blending with the mixer on and off (while stirring manually with the stick blender). You should do this for about 1 to 2 minutes.
- The mixture should start to mix together and be less “oily” as you mix. You need to keep mixing until you get the mixture to “trace”.
- This means that you can drizzle a little bit of the mixture on the top, and it remains there for a short time before sinking back into the bowl.
- Keep stick blending and manually stirring until you reach trace.
Step Five: Divide the Batter into Colors
- Add the fragrance oil to the main mixing bowl and stir it in with the spatula.
- Divide the batter into the colorant cups. I filled the little cups with these amounts (but this is not that important – do what you think will look nice in your soap).
- Color 1: White – 1 cup
- Color 2: Yellow – 1/4 cup
- Color 3: Green – 1/4 cup
- Color 4: Pink – 3/4 cup
- Color 5: Blue – 1/4 cup
- Stir each cup, starting with the white, then yellow, then green, then pink, then blue (that is important so that you don’t change the colors of any of the cups).
- Make sure the colorants are mixed in well and there are no clumps of colorant. If you have to, stick blend each (in the color order stated above in step 3). But try to avoid stick blending if you can.
Step Six: Pour the Soap into the Mold:
- In whichever color order you would like, pour a stripe of color long-ways in the mold. you don’t have to get them even, but just try to pour it so you get a stripe of each color across the width of the mold.
- Repeat side by side with each color.
- On the next layer, alternate which colors you poured first (so it staggers the colors around).
- Keep doing this until the mold is about 1/4 inch from the top full.
- Set the remaining batter aside for now. You should have a little bit of each color left. Maybe more of the white and pink if you make the amounts I mentioned int he steps above.
- Take a wooden dowel or the handle of a wooden spoon and make a few loops from the bottom to the top of the mold. You are trying to stir the colors together just a little bit (not so much that they blend, but just to mix them up a little and make them swirl). I held the dowel at a 45 degree angle and just did several loop-de-loops across the width of the mold and then repeated moving down the long side of the mold.
- Tap the mold against the table to settle the batter in and release any air bubbles.
- Don’t worry about making the top pretty, it will be covered up.
Step Seven: Prepare the Piping Bag
Wait until the batter thickens enough to pipe it (it will be a little thinner than cake frosting, but a little thicker than pudding). You might have to wait a little while until it gets to this stage, so take the opportunity to take a break or wash some dishes.
- Using a 2D (closed star) tip, fit it to a piping bag. I used a 2D tip, cloth piping bag, and a coupler. You can just use a plastic bag with no coupler if you prefer.
- Place this, tip down, into a large drinking glass.
- Get a large piece of plastic wrap and place this on the counter top.
- Lay out lines of colored soap batter on the plastic wrap and use up all the remaining batter.
- Pull the plastic wrap long edges together and then twist both ends. You should have a “log” of multi-colored batter inside a plastic pouch when you are done.
- Cut off one end where it is twisted.
- Put this end down into the piping bag you prepared above in step 2.
- Get a piece of waxed paper out. It doesn’t have to be very big. maybe 6″x6″.
- Practice piping some batter on to the waxed paper to make sure it is thick enough to pipe. If not, wait another 15 minutes and try again.
Step Eight: Finish the Piping
- With the piping tip either straight up and down, or at a 45 degree angle, push out small dollops of batter onto the soap top. I got about 5 dollops across the width of my mold and perhaps 5 dollops down the length of it. (I have a small 4″ mold). Make one layer of dollops.
- Go back in between the dollops you made on the first layer, and make another layer of dollops.
- Go back again between those dollops and make another layer.
- Keep doing this, building higher toward the center of the mold, until either the soap starts getting too high, or your run out of batter. (try not to get any dollops overlapped over the side of the mold. Try to stay within the boundaries of the mold). It can go higher than the mold, but not wider than the mold.
- Optional: When done lightly sprinkle the top with an even layer of iridescent glitter
With this fragrance oil and this soap recipe, I got a significant amount of acceleration and a small amount of ricing. While this fragrance oil might work well with another recipe, I would recommend if you use this recipe, that you use a fragrance oil that you know and love, that doesn’t cause acceleration or ricing. If you want to try it anyway, just be prepared for it. The batter will thicken quickly, making it progressively harder to pour the lines of batter into the mold without “plopping” them in.
This fragrance was described (and reviewed) as a light, clean smelling scent that is perfect for kids. To me it smells like laundry soap. It has that sharp-ozone type scent to it that I don’t prefer. Others love it though, so it could just be me. I am funny about fragrances sometimes.
I hope you enjoyed this free recipe. If you make the soap, I would love to see your pictures, or hear about your experience with it.
Of course, in a couple days, when I can unmold and cut the soap, I will come back and post pictures! 🙂