I have never made a palm-free soap before. I generally use the “responsible” palm oil that Brambleberry sells for all my soaps. I have wanted to try out making palm-free for a while, but never got a chance. Well, today I did, and I am sharing the recipe!
Since this was my first palm-free recipe, I kept it simple. I used Coconut, Olive, Castor and Rice Bran oils. I also used a good amount of Shea Butter. I used Shea instead of Cocoa because I wanted to avoid any false trace problems that I have gotten in the past when using Cocoa Butter. Cocoa butter would have made a harder soap, but I was able to achieve an acceptable hardness with Shea.
I did manage to get this to some decent INS values. It’s a little more cleansing than my normal soap (16 versus 14) but I needed the extra coconut oil to achieve the hardness.
- Hardness: 37
- Cleansing: 16
- Conditioning: 60
- Bubbly: 27
- Creamy: 31
- Iodine: 64
- INS: 140
- Sat: Unsat Ratio: 38:62
I made the soap in the usual way, measuring the oils, heating them and then measuring the water and lye. I soaped this at about 120 degrees.
After getting the batter to trace, I poured about 1/4 cup into each of 3 cups containing:
- Nurture Soap: Really Red Mica
- Nuture Soap: Yellow Vibrance Mica
- Brambleberry: Nuclear Orange Pigment
To the remaining batter (which was still about 2 cups worth), I added some pre-dissolved titanium dioxide. Then I did a simple in-the-pot swirl
I then poured it all into the mold and scraped all the batter from all my cups on to the top. Wow! That “really red mica” is really red, and that “nuclear orange” is really nuclear!
I took a barbecue skewer and swirled the top (digging down into the batter a little bit and flicking it up to the surface) to create what looks like flames.
At this point, I was admiring my soap and out of the corner of my eye, I caught a glimpse of my fragrance oil, still in the measuring cup! Darn it all! I forgot to add it! Oh well, I will just have to make this soap again and remember to add it next time!
I can’t wait to cut it in a few days and see what the inside reveals!
If you want to try this soap, here is the recipe:
Dragon’s Fire Soap
- Coconut Oil – 24% – 3.5 ounces – 99 grams
- Olive Oil – 29% – 4.2 ounces – 119 grams
- Shea Butter – 20% – 2.9 ounces – 82 grams
- Castor Oil – 12% – 1.7 ounces – 49 grams
- Rice Bran Oil – 15% – 2.2 ounces – 62 grams
- Distilled Water – 5.2 ounces – 148 grams
- Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) – 2.0 ounces – 56 grams
- Fragrance – 0.5 ounces – 14 grams
- I intended to use Nurture Soap’s Dragon’s Blood fragrance oil
- Really Red Mica – 1/4 teaspoon (Nurture Soap)
- Yellow Vibrance Mica – 1/4 teaspoon (Nurture Soap)
- Nuclear Orange Pigment – 1/4 teaspoon (Brambleberry)
- Titanium Dioxide – 1/2 teaspoon
This is not intended for beginners. Please do not attempt making this soap unless you are experienced with cold process soap making and understand the steps and safety procedures.
- Measure and combine the oils
- Measure and combine the lye and water
- Pre-disperse the colorants into separate 1 cup measuring cups.
- When the lye solution and oils are about 120 degrees (F), pour the lye solution into the oils.
- Bring to thin trace.
- Pour 1/4 cup of soap batter into each of the 1 cup measuring cups where you predisposed the colorants.
- Add the titanium dioxide into the main batter after splitting off the colored portions.
- Stir each until combined.
- Pour the red, orange and yellow batters into the white batter in three equally spaced spots. Leave a little bit in the cup for the soap top.
- Stir once or twice around the pot with a spatula.
- Pour this mixture into the mold. Vary the pouring height and pour from end to end of the mold to vary the swirls.
- Scrape each cup of colored batter and sprinkle it on the top.
- Take a skewer and draw some figure 8’s on the top of the soap. Don’t sink it into the mixture more than 1/8 inch.
- Going long-ways in the mold starting on the left side, at a 45 degree angle, dig the skewer into the batter about 1/4″ and flick it up toward the center. You can kind of see the effect in the picture below.
- tap the mold on the table to settle it into the mold.
- Let the soap sit in the mold for 2 to 3 days or until ready to un-mold.
- Cure for 4 to 6 weeks.
In a few days after I can un-mold and cut this, I will come back and post the cutting pictures.