Free Recipe – Ladies Shave Lotion

I want to start out with a disclaimer — this is not a product I use for myself.   It was a special request by a relative who asked me to duplicate a product for her.  I have no idea how close or far this is from the original, it is purely an analytical recipe, but it did produce quite a nice feeling lotion in my test.

I was asked if I could duplicate “Coochy Cream”.   “It sounds nasty”, I said.   It turns out it is used for shaving the bikini area (or other things like legs and armpits) and is supposed to leave the skin free of shave bumps and blemishes.

So, of course, I had to go look this product up since I had never heard of it.   And you know what I found?  It’s just a lotion.  It has some rather nice things in it like panthenol and allantoin, but overall, it’s just a lotion.   I’m in luck!   I can duplicate a lotion!

Per the process I have followed for all my “dupe” projects, I did the analysis.  I got the ingredients list, figured out what they contributed to the recipe, estimated the percentages (based on commonly used percentages) and then figured out which phase they go into.

There were several things in this lotion that I don’t have, so I figured out what similar ingredients in my stock would provide the same or similar benefit.

Here is what that analysis looked like:

Order – The order that the ingredient appeared in the original ingredient list (this helps you to figure out what percentage the ingredient is likely to be used at since ingredients must be listed in order (until they get under 1%).

Green = like for like match

Purple = similar ingredient substitute

Grey = not using it (maybe it is part of a formulation, for example, there are two preservative ingredients listed, and I am using Liquid Germall Plus, so I can substitute both of them with just one ingredient).  Emulsifiers and thickeners are easy to replace with another.   I used BTMS-50 in this one, so I could replace some conditioning and emulsifying ingredients.

Order
Ingredient
Type
Phase
Est %
I Will Use This
1 Water (Eau) Water Water 75.8% Water
2 Cetyl Alcohol Thickener Oils 3.0% Cetyl Alcohol
3 Cetrimonium Bromide Ammonium Salt Oils 2.5% BTMS50
4 Stearyl Alcohol Emulsifier Oils 2.5% N/A
5 Hydroxyethylcellulose Thickener Oils 2.5% N/A
6 Glyceryl Stearate Emulsifier Oils 2.0% N/A
7 PEG-100 Stearate Ester Oils 2.0% Cetyl Esters
8 PEG-60 Lanolin Protectant Oils 2.0% Lanolin
9 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Oil Oils 2.0% Jojoba Oil
10 Hydrolyzed Keratin Conditioner Water 2.0% Vegekeratin
11 Panthenol Conditioner Water 2.0% Panthenol
12 Allantoin Occlusive Water 0.5% Allantoin
13 Phenoxyethanol Preservative Cool Down 0.3% Liquid Germall Plus
14 Methylisothiazolinone Preservative Cool Down 0.2% N/A
15 Sodium Hydroxide PH Adjuster Cool Down 0.2% N/A
16 Fragrance (Parfum) Fragrance Cool Down 0.5% Fragrance

 

I decided to use more oil than I estimated they had, and added another healing oil to the mix – Borage.  Borage is known to be anti-inflammatory, anti-acne, helps with redness and is generally healing.

I also decided to use some aloe vera liquid as part of my water to make this extra skin loving.

I added two humectants for moisture – Honeyquat PF and Sodium Lactate.

I didn’t have any PEG ingredients, but one is just an ester which I replaced with Cetyl Esters.  The other is just a Lanolin, which I replaced with “pure lanolin”.

I do not have Cetrimonium Bromide, but it is a conditioner and I am using BTMS-50 which is also a conditioning emulsifier.

Finally, I did not have Hydrolyzed Keratin, but I do have Vegekeratin that I bought for making hair conditioners, so I am using that instead.

 

Here is the recipe I came up with:

 

Ladies Shave Cream

IMG_6223

*like my cute little bottle?  I bought it Saturday at Michaels for about $1.  It was a pain to clean out after the picture, but it’s cute, right? 🙂

Water Phase

%

Grams

Purpose

Distilled Water 65.0% 163 Water
Aloe Vera Liquid 10.0% 25 Hydrating
Sodium Lactate 3.0% 8 Humectant
Allantoin 1.0% 3 Occlusive
DL-Panthenol (Powder) 2.0% 5 Conditioner

Oils Phase

 

 

 

Jojoba Oil 3.0% 8 Oil
Borage Oil 3.0% 8 Oil
Cetyl Alcohol 2.0% 5 Thickener
Cetyl Esters NF 2.0% 5 Ester
Lanolin (Pure) 1.0% 3 Oil
(Complete) BTMS-50+ 2.8% 7 Conditioner / Emulsifier

Cool Down Phase

 

 

Liquid Germall Plus 0.5% 1 Preservative
Fragrance Oil

(I used Oatmeal, Milk & Honey)

0.5% 1 Fragrance
Honeyquat PF 2.0% 5 Humectant
VegeKeratin 2.0% 5 Protein

 

Instructions:

IMG_6200-side

Follow basic lotion making instructions like posted in this recipe.

 

I will give this lotion to the requestor and find out if it’s a good dupe or not.   If it is, then we made a dupe for $2.74 for 8 ounces as opposed to the commercial version which costs about $12 for 16 ounces (so it’s $6 for 8 ounces).   I guess it is half the price to make it yourself, and maybe not worth the effort, but if you do use this product, you could make a lot of it and save even more money over the long-haul.

 

 

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5 thoughts on “Free Recipe – Ladies Shave Lotion

  1. I love he analytical way you break down and ‘translate’ commercial recipes – the fog is slowly starting to lift for me – I even started researching uk suppliers if preservative – thank you 😊

    Like

    1. Thank you for your kind words. Lotion making does seem to be hard to grasp at first but then something just clicks and suddenly you wonder why you were so confused in the first place. It helps if you can try to equate some of the ingredients or steps to soap making (amount of lye needed to saponify oils versus amount of emulsifier needed to thicken oils – similar kind of concept). The hardest part is using restraint since there are so many great ingredients that “can” be used. 🙂

      Liked by 1 person

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