New Lotion and Emulsified Body Butters — Also a Free Body Butter Recipe

Despite sleeping in today, by accident, until 11:30 AM, (ahem…), I did manage to get a few things done this weekend that I have been wanting to try.  I didn’t get to make any soap (as I had planned), but oh well.  There’ is always next weekend!

While I have made many, many lotions in the past, I have not yet tried out any emulsified body butters.    My usual body butter recipe is anhydrous (doesn’t contain any water), therefore any water-based ingredients can’t be included in them.   They are still lovely, but are heavy, oily feeling, and missing out on all the lovely ingredients such as humectants, proteins, and extracts that you can include in emulsified lotions.

Making a lotion that is rich in butters and oils can also be called a body butter, but it is very different from the anhydrous ones.    It can now contain all the great water-soluble ingredients and since it contains water, it is also going to be more hydrating that the anhydrous body butters.

So, armed with my handy-dandy Excel based recipe formulation calculator that I made, I set to work to create some very rich, butter heavy, emulsified creams.   I managed to make 4 very different body butters this weekend and a light, astringent facial lotion made with cucumber hydrosol and green tea extract.

Cucumber and Green Tea Astringent Facial Lotion

IMG_6651

I recently bought some “tottle” bottles to try out.  They are supposed to be easier to squeeze the lotion out of than the PET plastic bottles.    They do present a bit of a filing challenge, but I managed to overcome that.

IMG_6628-sideMade with hempseed and camellia seed oils, aloe and green tea extracts, and cucumber hydrosol, the lotion is astringent, light-feeling, and a natural pretty green color thanks the hempseed oil.   It also smells like cucumbers, thanks to the hydrosol.

Apple Pie Body Butter

IMG_6660

With babassu, rice bran and boabab oils, and kokum and mango butters, as well as oat extract, this is a thick, rich, body butter that is so creamy.  I used “Hot Apple Pie” fragrance oil from Bramblebery and it does smell just like hot apple pie!  It also has three humectants (glycerin, sodium lactate and honeyquat), so it is super hydrating!

 

Oatmeal, Milk & Honey Body Butter

IMG_6695

My sister is addicted to Brambleberry’s Oatmeal, Milk & Honey Cybilla fragrance oil, so this one is for her.  It smells sweet, warm and comforting, and the body butter turned out rich, smooth, and creamy.

It contains flax and borage oils as well as shea and murmuru butters.  I added hydrolyzed oats and oat extract, as well as two humectants.

 

Peach Perfection Body Butter

IMG_6671

I couldn’t resist adding a little bit of peach coloring to this one because this fragrance smells so peachy, it deserved a color to match.   I added just a little touch of yellow mica and coral mica.

IMG_6638-side

This one has flax and argan oils, shea and cocoa butter, as well as two humectants, aloe vera liquid and chamomile extract.

 

Mango Mango Body Butter

IMG_6665

And, finally for the last one.   This one is made with babassu, kukui and macadamia oils, cocoa and mango butters.  It also has a few more goodies such as aloe vera liquid and extract, panthenol, allantoin, two humectants, and dimethicone to help with skin health and conditioning, and a touch of isopropyl myristate to help it feel less oily.

 

Free Recipe – Mango Body Butter

Keep in mind that you can substitute any oils for any oils listed, and any butters for any butters listed.  Don’t have babassu?  No problem — use apricot kernel, or any other oil you have in your stash.   Don’t have mango butter?  Just use shea.

For other oil-based ingredients like aloe extract, isopropyl myristate and dimethicone If you want to remove them, just add their total amount into one of your other oils.  So for example, to remove isopropyl myristate, add 5 grams more kukui oil instead.

For the things in the water phase, like aloe vera liquid, panthenol and allantoin – if you don’t have them, just add more water in the amount of the ingredient you are removing.

Sure, making a lot of substitutions will change the feel of the lotion somewhat, but it will still be lovely.  Just make sure to use equal amounts of whatever you substitute with, and you’ll be fine.

If you don’t have Polawax, you can use regular emulsifying wax NF, but add 1% more (so add 9.4% / 23 grams and subtract 2 grams of water).

Ingredient

Percentage

Grams

Water Phase

Distilled Water 41.1% 103
Aloe Vera Liquid 10.0% 25
DL-Panthenol (Powder) 2.0% 5
Allantoin 0.5% 1
Vegetable Glycerin 2.0% 5
Sodium Lactate 2.0% 5

Oils Phase

Babassu Oil 5.0% 13
Kukui Nut Oil 3.0% 8
Macadamia Nut Oil 3.0% 8
Cocoa Butter 7.0% 18
Mango Butter 6.0% 15
Cetyl Alcohol 3.0% 8
Isopropyl Myristate 2.0% 5
Polawax 8.4% 21

Cool Down Phase

Preservative: Liquid Germall Plus 0.5% 1
DM350 Dimethicone 2.0% 5
Fragrance Oil  (I used Brambleberry’s Mango Mango) 0.5% 1
Extract (Oil Soluble): Aloe 2.0% 5

 

Instructions:

Make this the same way as any lotion.  See this post for instructions.

 

Well, that’s it for my weekend, but I feel satisfied!  I was able to make some fun things, and have a few more in the queue for next weekend.   I hope you enjoy the free recipe, and I hope you have a fantastic week ahead!

 

 

Advertisements

5 thoughts on “New Lotion and Emulsified Body Butters — Also a Free Body Butter Recipe

  1. I can’t wait to begin making body butters come Autumn! I love the way they feel! I’m keen to try a mango body butter recipe after reading this. I just made some lip butter and I add in mango butter so I’ve mango on the mind and I have never made body butter with mango butter!!! Quick question for you, your allantoin, you add it in at .5%, is that because you added in a fair bit of cocoa butter as your ingredient to create a barrier?

    Liked by 1 person

    1. These were my first body butters too, but they are pretty easy — just like making any lotion, or thick cream (for that matter). I usually add between .5% to 1% allantoin because it doesn’t always fully dissolve or it re-crystalizes or something, so it can feel gritty at higher amounts. I was also adding panthenol (another powder) so I wanted to reduce the chance for any grittiness. Mango butter is great to use. It feels less greasy than shea, and it’s also a little harder, so you get a thicker, drier feel. Your lip butter sounds wonderful. I don’t believe I have made a lip butter before, only lip balms. 🙂 Another thing to try out!

      Liked by 1 person

      1. I usually add 1% allantoin to my “stuff” because of the barrier function. To prevent the allantoin recrystallising, I usually toss it into heat phase and into the double boiler on a low simmer for about ten-twenty minutes. You know the huge argument about how the heat and hold is a myth and others swear by it, I really think it has to do more with crystalline ingredients more than killing the beasties. The one time I did not let my heat phase simmer for too long was the only time I found allantoin decided to be nasty. I only have access to the liquid panthenol so I must add that in the cool down phase. If allantoin is cheap where you are, give it an experiment 50g of water and .5g of allantoin into a few beakers and see what your allantoin needs to fully dissolve. Remove one at various times (usually five minute intervals) stir, then let sit till fully cooled down. You can actually see them recyrstalize and it’s really cool! But will give you an idea of exactly how long you need to keep your concoction on the double boiler.

        I love allantoin! I had a good learning curve with it!

        Liked by 1 person

      2. Thanks for the great ideas! I usually do add it to the water phase and heat and hold, but sometimes I use the microwave if I am just making a test batch (because it is a small amount and will be used quickly). Honestly, I don’t see much difference in the lifespan of the product either way, but then since I make small batches, I usually do use all the product within about 6 months so I don’t know if they last much longer or not. It might be making a difference with the allantoin though. Honestly, I haven’t had too much problem with the allantoin being gritty, but have only noticed it once or twice. I think when I started out I was using even more (2%) and that might be when I noticed it the most, so I reduced the amount.

        Liked by 1 person

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s