Green Apple & Ginseng Gel Cream

Time to celebrate!  My Aristoflex AVC finally arrived and I have created a gel cream.  Hooray!

Since this was my first formula using Aristoflex AVC, I kept it very simple so as not to waste too much money should I fail.   Luckily, it turned out wonderful, but any time there is a new ingredient, I try to be safe.

Today I am sharing the formula with you in case you would like to try a simple, small batch formula using this emulsifier.

Aristoflex AVC is a polymeric emulsifier which is cold processable (which means there is no heating and holding).  This makes it incredibly quick and easy.

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It cannot be used with certain ingredients such as electrolytes (so no aloe vera, sodium lactate or the like) or with hydrolyzed proteins.  Further, it will only incorporate a small amount of oils (5% or less).   So why bother with it?   Well, I did want to try out gel creams, and you can still include a ton of other wonderful, skin-loving ingredients such as humectants, cosmeceuticals, extracts, and etc.   So long as you stay within the guidelines of 5% or less of oils, and no electrolytes or hydrolyzed proteins — you’re good!

Along with the Aristoflex AVC, I also bought some “Green Apple Fruit Essence” from Lotioncrafter.   It smells just like apple juice.   I decided to use some of that in this formula to scent it.

Since I only had the opportunity to use 5% oils, I decided on a split between using olive squalane (because it is light, and because I love it) and an oil soluble extract — Ginseng.

Brambleberry’s botanical extracts all come dissolved in fractionated coconut oil, so you have to consider this one of the oils in your formula.

Ginseng extract is thought to reduce wrinkles, promote collagen production, brighten the skin, and encourage skin repair and regeneration.  This makes it a great anti-aging ingredient.

It takes just 1% or less of Aristoflex AVC to make a thick gel cream.   It is a pricey ingredient, but you only have to use a small amount of it.

Of course I threw in some panthenol and allantoin, which meant that I had to slightly heat my water phase to dissolve those things.   Then I had to wait just a little bit (10 minutes or so) to let it cool back down to room temperature.   I measured the rest of my ingredients out while I waited.

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Basically all I did (once I had all the ingredients measured out and ready to go) is I added the oil (squalane and ginseng extract) to the water phase, added the preservative, and then sprinkled in the Aristoflex AVC.

From there, I just blended with the stick blender for not very long at all (because this stuff thickens pretty much instantly).   At that point, it was already done.   It took maybe 2 minutes from the time I started to mix until I decided everything was mixed in well enough and looking smooth.

What do I think of it?

Well, I can kind of smell the Aristoflex though the apple scent.   The apple essence (at 10% of the formula) is just barely shy of what must be needed to cover up the smell.  It is not bad, but it made the apple smell a little “plastic”.

The color and gloss is lovely.  It is sort of translucent, glassy, and jelly like.

When I put it on, it felt a little bit tacky, but after about 1 to 2 minutes, it dries, leaving my skin non-sticky, weightless, and soft feeling.  I feel hydrated.  After it dries, you can then smell the apple, so it appears the Aristoflex smell dissipates.


Green Apple & Ginseng Gel Cream

Makes about 8 ounces / 250 grams – Cost estimate – USD $2.78

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Ingredient Percentage Grams
Phase A:
Distilled Water 77.0% 193
Propanediol 1,3 2.0% 5
Glycerin 2.0% 5
Green Apple Fruit Essence 10.0% 25
DL-Panthenol (Powder) 2.0% 5
Allantoin 0.5% 1
Phase B:
Extract (Oil Soluble):Ginseng 2.5% 6
Olive Squalane 2.5% 6
Liquid Germall Plus 0.5% 1
Phase C:
Aristoflex AVC 1.0% 3

 

Instructions:

  1.  Measure out the phase A ingredients, add them together in a mixing vessel and microwave for about 30 seconds.  You don’t want to get it too hot, but just warm enough so that the powdered ingredients dissolve.    Let this cool as you proceed with the instructions.
  2. Measure the phase B ingredients and set aside.
  3. Measure the phase C ingredient and set aside.
  4. When Phase A is room temperature (or at least about 100 degrees F or lower), stir in the phase B ingredients.  It won’t mix because you are adding oil to water, but that is ok.  Just give it a stir.
  5. Sprinkle the phase C / Aristoflex AVC on top of the mixture and stir with a spatula until you have wetted all the powder.  It’s going to look lumpy at this point. Don’t worry.
  6. Blend with the stick blender for about 1 to 2 minutes.  It will smooth out and thicken very quickly.
  7. Once the mixture is smooth and no lumps remain, it is done and ready to use.
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